An automatic watch is a small mechanical engine built to measure time through a series of carefully balanced movements. Inside its case, dozens of gears, pivots, jewels, and springs work in coordination, powered by a mainspring and regulated by an oscillating balance wheel. This level of mechanical precision can last decades, but only with proper care and periodic maintenance.
Over time, the lubricants inside the movement dry out, gaskets lose elasticity, and metal parts gradually wear from friction. Neglecting maintenance does not just reduce accuracy; it can lead to permanent damage requiring expensive part replacements. Like any fine machine, a mechanical watch needs scheduled servicing to ensure consistent performance and long-term durability.
How Often Should a Watch Be Professionally Serviced?
Most manufacturers and professional watchmakers recommend a full service every three to five years. However, this interval can vary depending on usage conditions, environment, and storage. The goal is to service the watch before wear or friction begins causing internal damage.
More frequent servicing may be needed if:
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The watch is worn daily, particularly during physical work or outdoor activity.
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It is often exposed to moisture, dust or high temperatures.
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Timekeeping suddenly becomes inconsistent or irregular.
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The watch is vintage and uses older, more delicate components.
Less frequent servicing may suffice if:
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The watch is part of a collection and worn occasionally.
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It is stored in a stable, dry environment such as a watch box or winder.
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It runs within expected accuracy and was serviced within the past few years.
Warning signs that indicate immediate service needs include: condensation under the crystal; noticeable time deviation (more than 30 seconds per day); unusual sounds when winding; or resistance when setting the crown. Any of these can point to worn seals, degraded oil or internal friction.
What Happens During a Full Watch Service?
A complete service is an extensive mechanical overhaul that restores the watch to its intended operating condition. It requires careful disassembly, cleaning, lubrication and regulation by a trained watchmaker.
Step-by-step process:
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Complete Disassembly: The movement is fully taken apart, each wheel, spring and screw separated. Every part is catalogued to ensure proper reassembly.
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Ultrasonic Cleaning: All components are cleaned in an ultrasonic bath to remove old lubricants, dust and microscopic debris that accumulate over years of use.
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Inspection and Replacement: Each part is inspected under magnification. Worn or damaged components, such as mainsprings, gaskets or worn gear teeth are replaced with genuine or manufacturer-approved parts.
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Lubrication: Fresh, fine-grade oils are applied to specific points using precision tools. Modern movements often require several oil types, each applied to a different function within the gear train.
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Reassembly and Regulation: The movement is rebuilt and regulated to maintain accuracy within factory tolerances. The amplitude, beat error and timing are tested across multiple positions.
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Testing and Quality Control: The watch is re-cased with new seals, tested for water resistance and monitored over several days to confirm stable performance and power reserve duration.
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Some service centres also include case and bracelet refinishing, cleaning the exterior metal surfaces to restore appearance (without excessive polishing that might alter geometry).
Choosing Between Brand Service and Independent Watchmakers
When it is time for maintenance, you typically have two main choices: a brand-authorized service centre or a qualified independent watchmaker. Each has its merits.
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Service Type |
Advantages |
Considerations |
|
Brand-Authorized Centre |
Uses proprietary parts and adheres to brand specifications; maintains documented service history (helpful for resale value); often includes post-service warranty. |
Typically higher cost and longer turnaround times due to brand procedures. |
|
Independent Watchmaker |
Often quicker turnaround, more competitive pricing; direct communication; many specialise in certain movements. |
Must be vetted carefully to ensure correct tooling and genuine parts; warranty policies may vary. |
For either option, confirm that the technician is certified, has access to manufacturer service documentation and uses proper timing and pressure-testing equipment.
The Role of Watch Winders and Typical Servicing Costs
Are watch winders necessary?
A winder is convenient but not essential. Its purpose is to keep automatic watches running when not in use, preventing the need to reset the time or calendar. It can be especially useful for watches with complex functions (moon phases, perpetual calendars), but it does not reduce the need for servicing.
If you do not use a winder, store the watch crown-up in a dry, stable environment. If it remains unused for long periods, a light manual wind every week or two keeps the oils distributed within the movement.
Typical Cost of Servicing
Service costs in India depend largely on the brand, the complexity of the movement, and the type of service provider. Entry-level or microbrand automatics are usually maintained by independent watchmakers, while mid-range and luxury Swiss watches often go to authorized centres equipped with brand-specific tools and testing instruments.
Because brand service centres often charge higher fees, it is wise to check official service pricing for your region and specific model.
Why Regular Maintenance Protects More Than Accuracy
A well-maintained watch does more than keep correct time. Service prevents metal-on-metal wear, protects water resistance and preserves the structural integrity of critical components. The result is a timepiece that remains as reliable twenty years later as it was on the day it left the factory.
For collectors and enthusiasts, regular servicing also protects resale and sentimental value. Many high-quality mechanical watches are designed to last for generations but only if their owners treat maintenance as part of ownership rather than an after-thought.
Experience Responsible Watch Ownership with the Argos Olympus
The Argos Olympus represents a modern approach to mechanical reliability. Powered by the Seagull Caliber 2530, it includes a power-reserve indicator, a visual cue of the energy stored in the mainspring that connects the wearer directly to the rhythm of its movement.
Servicing this kind of watch every few years ensures that the complications from the small-seconds subdial to the reserve display, function precisely as intended. It reflects the broader principle that every mechanical timepiece, whether simple or complex, thrives when cared for.
The Olympus was designed with durability and serviceability in mind, making it a dependable example of how accessible mechanical engineering can be both practical and enduring. For owners who appreciate the art of precision maintenance, it stands as a reminder that every mechanical watch deserves the same care it was built with.
