Automatic Watches
Understanding Watch Regulations: Keeping Your Timepiece Accurate
By Argos Watches
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Have you ever found yourself checking your favorite mechanical watch and realizing it's consistently running a little too fast, or perhaps a little too slow, day after day? Perhaps you've even wondered, "How many seconds does a watch really gain or lose each day?" This common phenomenon, where a watch shows a consistent deviation in its timekeeping, is often an issue that can be rectified through an operation called watch regulation.

Watch accuracy comes down to a few key measurements: its Rate (how many seconds it gains or loses per day), its Amplitude (the extent of the balance wheel's swing, indicating the movement's health), and its Beat Error (the timing difference between its "tick" and "tock" sounds). Understanding these indicators is crucial for keeping your timepiece precise. It's important to note that regulation is quite distinct from "adjustment," which is a far more intricate process having to do with how a watch functions in various attitudes.

Common Reasons Your Watch Might Be Inaccurate

Before considering regulating your watch, it's useful to know why it is not keeping good time at all.

Magnetism: With so many electronic devices in the world these days, magnetism is a highly likely reason why watches become inaccurate. If a mechanical watch is exposed to magnetic fields or spends most of its time close to an electronic device, such as your phone, it becomes magnetized. You can usually identify a magnetized watch when it begins to run extremely fast, or more uncommonly, extremely slow. 

Inside the Watch: This is "cleanliness" within the watch. Occasionally, small particles of dust, little fibers, or even a single stray hair will find its way into the movement. If these foreign particles become stuck in the gears of the watch, they can drag the watch down or even bring it to a halt. That's why having a clean working area and wearing special finger covers is important if you are peering into a watch.
Bumps or Falls: A mechanical watch functions because its numerous small components move in just the right ways. A few of these components, such as certain levers, are very sensitive and can be influenced by external force. If bumped or displaced out of position, the accuracy of the watch will be impacted. In most of these situations, regulation can fix the timekeeping.

What is a Timegrapher?

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Though you may discover tips on the internet regarding testing the accuracy of a watch using apps or other basic techniques, the correct method to know and control a watch is by employing a special tool known as a timegrapher.

A timegrapher does not only inform you about the accuracy of your watch. It incorporates a built-in microphone that detects the "ticks" and "tocks" that your watch emits. Based on these sounds, it computes various measurements that indicate the overall well-being of the inner workings of your watch. A functioning timegrapher provides you with helpful information to know the status of your watch.

Understanding the Numbers on a Timegrapher

When a timegrapher is operating, it typically displays four primary numbers on its screen. Each number indicates something significant about the watch being tested:
  • Rate: This is the most observed figure. It's displayed as "s/d" (seconds per day) and indicates how much the watch gains (+) or loses (-) during a 24-hour period. For instance, a figure of "+3 s/d" indicates that the watch gains 3 seconds per day. A watch is usually said to be doing well if it's +/- 10 seconds per day. A small speediness is usually better than slowness.
  • Amplitude: This figure indicates how much the balance wheel, the vibrating heart of the watch, turns with every oscillation. It is a good sign of the quality of the movement. A good movement, when fully wound, should display an amplitude of 280-320 degrees or higher. A low amplitude usually indicates issues that must be addressed before any regulation, such as blockages caused by foreign particles or dried-out oils. But above 250 degrees is still typically healthy. As a point of reference, most typical Japanese movements are within the range of 230-315 degrees, which is healthy.
  • Beat Error: This is a slightly more difficult-to-understand measurement, but basically, it's how much time exists between the "tick" sound and the "tock" sound. Ideally, the two should be evenly spaced. When the balance wheel oscillates more in one direction than the other, then one "tick" will be longer than the "tock." An abnormally small beat error will not often make the watch inaccurate, but a large beat error will cause uneven wear after a while. It will also cause a watch to refuse to start on its own when wound from a standstill, so you will need to shake it to get it running. Extremely high beat error can even make the movement stop or fail in extreme situations. A beat error of less than 0.6 ms is generally good.
  • Lift Angle / Beat Frequency: The timegrapher also displays figures corresponding to the watch's beat frequency (how many "ticks" within a second, usually indicated as beats per hour, such as 21,600 bph, which is 6 ticks per second) and its lift angle. The lift angle is a certain figure for a particular watch movement model (e.g., a Seiko NH35 usually has a lift angle of 53 degrees, but a Miyota 8 series may be 49 degrees). The lift angle must be set manually in the timegrapher because it is utilized by the device to properly compute the amplitude. The beat frequency is normally picked up automatically by the timegrapher, and automatic picking up is usually safe.

How to Regulate a Watch: A Step-by-Step Guide

A warning: This is a process that requires you to touch your watch's delicate inner components. If you're inexperienced, it's strongly advised to let this be done by a professional watchmaker. Small mistakes can lead to irreparable damage.

Here is a simple overview of the process of regulating a watch with the help of a timegrapher:

1. Prepare and Test: Start by completely winding your watch. Next, set the watch into the clamp of the timegrapher. The microphone in the device will pick up the watch's "tick-tocks" and show readings. You'll observe lines on the screen. If these lines slope upward, the watch is fast. If the lines slope downward, the watch is slow. The distance between the lines indicates beat error. Straighter, more consistent lines generally indicate a healthier movement. Irregular lines indicate a larger issue that will require professional attention from a watchmaker.
2. Check Amplitude: Once the lines are good, then check the amplitude. The ideal amplitude for a fully wound watch is in the 280-320 degree range. A lower amplitude might be due to an older movement, but anything less than 200 degrees usually means you should take it in for professional service.
3. Adjust Beat Error: Now check the beat error. A value less than 0.6 ms is usually okay. To adjust beat error, you will have to open the back of the watch to reach the movement. At the top of the balance wheel, there are two small levers. One is the "mobile stud carrier" (mounted on the hairspring), and the other one is the "regulator" (also close to the hairspring). You adjust the beat error by moving the stud carrier carefully. Perform this step using a pair of fine tweezers. It's important to keep your hand steady and move the lever just a fraction at a time since even small movements make a huge difference. Don't panic if the rate varies as you adjust the stud carrier; this is only normal. (Side note: if your watch has a fixed stud carrier, beat error adjustment is much more difficult and needs specialized tools, best left to experts).

4. Adjust the Rate: Once the beat error is satisfactory, you can set the rate of the watch. This is done by adjusting the regulator lever. There is usually a tiny +/- mark on the movement indicating the direction in which you should move the lever. Move it in the direction of "+" to gain time on the watch and in the direction of "-" to lose time on the watch. Once more, use a level hand and move very slowly. A few watches contain an adjusting screw or a "swan neck" action, under which the accuracy can be made even finer. Your objective is to get a rate as close to zero as possible, although a few seconds fast daily (+/- 10 s/d is usually counted as excellent) is usually acceptable.

5. Final Check: After making your adjustments, carefully close the watch case back. Place the watch on the timegrapher again, dial up, to check the readings. If everything looks good and consistent, your regulation is complete.

How Often Can a Watch Be Regulated?

There's no specific limit on how frequently you can service a watch. Some collectors like to take their watches on a timegrapher every so often just to monitor the health of the movement. But you don't have to worry excessively about slight day-to-day variations; temperature changes, for example, naturally cause a watch to run differently. If you don't see any significant difference in your watch's performance, it's alright to simply leave it alone.

Final Considerations on Watch Regulation

Knowing how watch regulation works is a handy piece of information for any watch owner. It ensures your timepiece will be a trustworthy and accurate companion for its entire existence. Knowing what aspects can cause an inaccurate movement and how regulating works gives you the power to do something to keep it running at its best.

While certain minimal regulation may be tried by enthusiasts using the proper tools and extreme caution, it's very important to approach the complexity of watch movements with respect. Always err on the side of caution and consult the professionals if in doubt. An experienced watchmaker possesses the skills to diagnose and repair more complex problems, making sure your watch not only tells time but also functions optimally for years to come.

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The Argos Olympus emerges as a compelling choice for anyone looking for a well-crafted mechanical watch that blends traditional watchmaking elements with practical features. Its design aims for a sophisticated look, suitable for various occasions, while its automatic movement ensures reliable timekeeping. For those seeking a quality timepiece that offers both refined aesthetics and dependable performance, the Olympus stands out.

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