Automatic Watches
Lost Arts: Exploring Obsolete Watchmaking Techniques
By Argos Watches
We love new watches. We praise their latest features. But old ways can be best. Many old watchmaking skills are almost forgotten. Only a few people still use them. These are called "lost arts." They show us a time when patience mattered. Precision mattered. The human touch mattered most.
Our world always wants new things. But some old things are still loved. They connect us to the past. They link us to old ways that new ideas left behind. These old ways show special skill. Machines often lack this. They remind us of a time when patience was important. Good quality was more important than speed.
The Charm of the Outdated: Why Old Ways Still Matter
In a world racing ahead with technology, many are choosing to preserve old ways. These traditions offer more than nostalgia—they slow us down, highlight quality, and remind us of the value in the human touch. In a time where speed often trumps substance, the charm of the outdated reveals a quiet truth: newer isn’t always better.
Nowhere is this more evident than in watchmaking. Once-forgotten techniques—like hand-finishing, engine turning, and traditional escapements—are being revived. These methods, though obsolete by modern standards, embody a level of craftsmanship and care that machines can't replicate. In bringing them back, artisans are proving that time-honored skills still have a place in today’s world.
Nowhere is this more evident than in watchmaking. Once-forgotten techniques—like hand-finishing, engine turning, and traditional escapements—are being revived. These methods, though obsolete by modern standards, embody a level of craftsmanship and care that machines can't replicate. In bringing them back, artisans are proving that time-honored skills still have a place in today’s world.
Gilding (Fire Gilding / Mercury Gilding)
Gilding, particularly the traditional method of fire gilding (also known as mercury gilding), is a highly skilled and now largely obsolete technique for applying a thin layer of gold to metal surfaces, especially brass watch movements and dials. This process involved creating an amalgam of gold and mercury, which was then applied to the prepared metal. The piece was then heated, causing the mercury to evaporate, leaving behind a pure gold layer that bonded securely to the surface.
While the result was incredibly durable and beautiful, providing a rich, lustrous gold finish that was far superior in depth and longevity to modern electroplating, the process was extremely hazardous due to the toxic mercury fumes released during heating. The severe health risks to artisans led to its gradual discontinuation, especially after the mid-19th century when safer electroplating methods became available.
Damascening (on movements)
This labor-intensive technique created decorative motifs on movement components, sometimes even aiding lubrication. The extreme precision required for engraving fine lines and inlaying tiny wires into microscopic channels on delicate watch parts made it exceptionally challenging.
Niello
Niello is an ancient decorative technique for metal, notably watch cases and dials. It involves engraving designs, then filling them with a black mixture of powdered metals (silver, copper, lead) and sulfur. This is fused by heat and polished, creating high-contrast black lines against the metal. Though labor-intensive, it yields intricate patterns. Its use in watchmaking largely vanished due to toxic lead in the mixture and rise of less labor-intensive techniques. Watches with original niello are rare and highly prized.
Jewel Setting with Drilled Chatons
Jewel setting with drilled chatons, also called screwed or gold chatons, is a largely lost watchmaking art. Instead of direct pressing, each jewel sits in a small, individual gold ring (chaton), secured to the movement plate by three tiny blued steel screws. This method offers easier jewel replacement, better security, and distinct aesthetic appeal. However, it's incredibly time-consuming and precise. Modern jewel setting is faster, pressing jewels directly into plates. Individually screwed chatons now signify artisanal, historically accurate movements.
Preserving Watchmaking's Legacy
In the world of watches, manual watchmaking is a fading art—one that speaks to the depth of human skill and the pursuit of perfection. Long before factories and automation, watches were crafted entirely by hand. Every tiny gear, spring, and screw was placed with intention, each part shaped and finished by skilled hands. This process takes not only time, but a level of patience and precision that is increasingly rare.
Today, most watches are mass-produced by machines. Yet, there are still those who remain devoted to the traditional craft. For a master watchmaker, this work is almost meditative. It demands total focus, steady hands, and a deep respect for detail. The bench becomes a quiet world of its own—where time is both the material being shaped and the story being told.
Today, most watches are mass-produced by machines. Yet, there are still those who remain devoted to the traditional craft. For a master watchmaker, this work is almost meditative. It demands total focus, steady hands, and a deep respect for detail. The bench becomes a quiet world of its own—where time is both the material being shaped and the story being told.
Museums and Artisans Keep Traditions Alive
Modern life brings rapid change, but museums and artisans work tirelessly to preserve the past. They protect traditional practices, ensuring that valuable skills and knowledge are not forgotten. Through restoration, education, and revival, they breathe new life into old ways and connect us to the generations before us.
These guardians of heritage do more than just save objects—they keep the spirit and stories behind them alive. In doing so, they remind us that the past holds deep value, even in a fast-moving world. Honoring these traditions is not about resisting progress, but about grounding it in meaning.
One such tradition is manual watchmaking. Though considered obsolete by some, it still survives thanks to those who understand its artistry. Its endurance offers hope—it proves that some crafts are simply too special to disappear. True progress means looking back as well as forward: learning from the past to create something new with purpose and care.
These guardians of heritage do more than just save objects—they keep the spirit and stories behind them alive. In doing so, they remind us that the past holds deep value, even in a fast-moving world. Honoring these traditions is not about resisting progress, but about grounding it in meaning.
One such tradition is manual watchmaking. Though considered obsolete by some, it still survives thanks to those who understand its artistry. Its endurance offers hope—it proves that some crafts are simply too special to disappear. True progress means looking back as well as forward: learning from the past to create something new with purpose and care.
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