Automatic Watches
Why India Was Once the World’s Largest Timepiece Consumer: A Historical Angle
By Argos Watches
The Big Step
In 1953, the government of India established Hindustan Machine Tools, or HMT. The main goal of this public company was to produce "mother machines," the kind of equipment needed to build everything from aircraft to ships. In the words of the first Prime Minister, Pandit Nehru, this company was one of the "Temples of Modern India."
Within a decade, however, a new need was identified. A simple, tough watch was missing from the wrists of ordinary people. At the time, watches were mostly imported and too expensive for most of the public. HMT, with its growing experience in making precise machine parts, was seen as the perfect fit to take on this new challenge. In 1961, HMT partnered with Citizen Watches of Japan to set up the first watch factory in Bangalore. The goal was to create a dependable watch for the people of India.
The Evolution of Indian Watchmaker
The first watches produced in this new factory used a very reliable design from Citizen. This watch movement, with its simple parts and strong build, was designed to work for many years without needing to be fixed. It ran with 17 tiny bearings, or jewels, and was built in a classic way with a seconds hand in the center.
This HMT movement was later changed and improved many times to create a variety of watches. They made models with only two hands (no seconds hand), and others with a small seconds hand on the side. They even created a special model for the Indian Air Force that could be stopped for exact time setting, which was crucial for military coordination. HMT also produced different kinds of ladies' watches, using a smaller movement from Citizen.
The first watches, called "HMT Citizen" for men and "HMT Sujata" for ladies, were produced in small numbers and released for the public in 1963. The public's demand for affordable, local watches grew day by day.
From Hand-Wound to Automatic
By 1972, a second watch factory was set up in Bangalore to make automatic watches. These watches wind themselves using a weighted part that moves with the motion of the wearer's wrist. HMT again used Citizen's design for these new automatic movements. These watches were just as tough and reliable as the hand-wound ones. This new movement was also used to create many different models, including some with day and date features and others with special dial designs.
In 1975, a third factory was opened in Kashmir with the goal of producing another 300,000 hand-winding watches each year. This factory created many popular models, some even featuring the famous "Chinar leaf" on the dial.
By 1985, they were able to make 100% of the parts for their mechanical watches themselves. From raw steel to finished cases, and from tiny springs to the watch faces themselves, almost every piece was made in-house using HMT's own machines.
Serving the Military and the Nation
HMT was also responsible for providing watches for the Indian military. Models like the "HMT Jawan" were given to army officers. These watches had special markings on the back that were similar to those used by the British military, showing their official status. A very rare HMT Pilot's watch was even made for fighter pilots of the Indian Air Force. This special watch had a feature that allowed the seconds hand to be stopped for perfect synchronization, which was a vital tool for timing maneuvers during flight.
How Quartz came Around and Changed Watchmaking
The arrival of battery-powered watches in the 1970s changed the entire watch world. Many traditional watch companies struggled to compete with the new, very accurate, and easy-to-maintain quartz watches. HMT saw this change and began producing its own quartz watches in 1986. They opened new factories and even made special digital and combination watches.
However, the competition from new private companies like Allwyn and Titan was fierce. While HMT was widespread across the country, it was a government-run company and couldn't always keep up with the fast-changing trends and business practices of its new competitors. Despite its best efforts, the company began to lose money. By 2016, the government had closed down the last HMT watch factory.
However, the competition from new private companies like Allwyn and Titan was fierce. While HMT was widespread across the country, it was a government-run company and couldn't always keep up with the fast-changing trends and business practices of its new competitors. Despite its best efforts, the company began to lose money. By 2016, the government had closed down the last HMT watch factory.
From Collector's Perspective
Even after its closure, the story of HMT is far from over. Today, these watches have a huge following among collectors. People are drawn to the feeling of nostalgia from the 1980s and 1990s, when receiving a watch as a gift was a major event. An HMT watch that has been passed down through a family for decades is a treasured item.
Many people collect HMT watches because they are durable, affordable, and represent a piece of Indian history. They are a sign of the nation's journey toward self-reliance. Collectors often search for rare finds in small, old watch shops, and the discovery of a rare piece is a huge thrill. The brand is also well-loved for its watches named after common Indian men and women, which adds a personal and familiar touch.
Many people collect HMT watches because they are durable, affordable, and represent a piece of Indian history. They are a sign of the nation's journey toward self-reliance. Collectors often search for rare finds in small, old watch shops, and the discovery of a rare piece is a huge thrill. The brand is also well-loved for its watches named after common Indian men and women, which adds a personal and familiar touch.
Today, HMT Watches continues in a small way, selling a limited number of watches online made from old parts and some new imported ones. However, the true legacy of HMT lies in the millions of wrists it once adorned and the memories it holds for a generation of Indians. It is a treasured part of Indian industrialization and a reminder of the visionaries who believed in making India a self-sufficient nation, one watch at a time.
Argos: The New Chapter of Indian Watchmaking
